Food for the Gods cooked by De' Angeli

Food for the Gods cooked
by De’Angeli

The elegance of the conservatory restaurant at the Lanesborough Hotel is a fitting setting for a missionary who’s task is to change our perceptions of a food and culture that has been defined by failed restaurants, canned Chile and Tacos that ring few bells.

Dinner on Friday night was a long awaited experience for me, having delighted at the food of Rick Bayliss at the Frontera Grill in Chicago, a great Chef and pupil of Alicia De’Angeli, so now it was time to put the teacher to the test.

To begin we choose the Lobster Taco with avocado and coriander sauce; a wonderful combination of subtle flavours, light textures and a sauce to die for; and a Crab meat soup served with a chile de arbol salsa; a robust soup with the dark rich flavours of a great mole and a salsa that added fire to the spice.

Excellent service all evening and a band that had resisted the urge to play “Down Mexico way” but the waiters had obviously been warned about the fiery nature of some of the ingredients for the London palate, especially when we were served a sample of “ Tres Salsas” – Three salsas of increasing strength; Tomatillo, Serrano and Chipotle – Some of the best I have ever tasted.

Why do people warn about “ Fiery Mexican food” when our national dish is curry?

Our entrees were a Rollo de pollo en mole (de Xico), a name as amusing as the dish was good, great chicken, spicy but mild mole and fried plantains. (The only negative being the slightly hard plantain slices)
Tequila marinated shrimp with ancho chile and dry tomato sauce was another notable dish with the tequila marinade combining well with the smoky notes of the ancho chile.
Our wine choice was a Tempranillo from Baja California, a soft red without being overwhelmed by the complex flavours of the food.

A wonderful evening with food that lived up to all our expectations, a gracious Chef who will leave some memorable impressions on the diners of London – even some converts and a setting that was as elegant as the food.